Canyonlands
GPS: Elevation: 3700-7200 feet
Canyonlands is one of the most rustic of the National park's
natural spaces, and it can be difficult to navigate, but with a little planning
those who venture to this special place will be amply rewarded .
If you can, schedule three days for Canyonlands. You can
easily spend two days in the Island in the Sky district with a visit to the
visitor center, attendance at a couple of interpretive programs, a hike or two,
and a leisurely drive along the park road with lots of stops at overviews.
Spend your last day at needles.
Make sure to get a copy of the Canyonlands Newspaper for
information on history, services and events. It also has a good map.
Learn more about it: You can't help
but take pictures in this gorgeous land.
Here are some tips to making better shots.
Best time to shoot is sunrise or sunset
because the lower light angle gives the subject depth and more realism. But, if
you can't resist photos the rest of the day, try to avoid 10-3pm on cloudless
days when the sun will wash out your shots.
Divide your shot into a 3 x 3 grid and place
your subject at the intersection of a horizontal and vertical line. Make sure
to fill your frame, either by moving closer or zooming in .
Cloud formations make for great photo
contrast and you'll find lots of variety in this area
website
www.nps.gove/cany/index.htm
blog/facebook/social media site
facebook site, frequently updated
Media Connection:
Before going, you might want to take a look at a PBS special called "The
Living Edens Canyonlands". The site
offers lots of information about the flora, fauna, history and creatures in
addition to access to a video on the area.
And individual videos
on specific aspects of Canyonlands from bighorn sheep to cryptobiotic soil can
be found at
And, if you are
interested in hearing the stories of the voices that helped put canyonlands on
the map, take a look at the following videos
Getting Oriented
·
Canyonlands is quite spread out, south and west
of Moab, covering 527 square miles of mesas, canyons, spires and arches of
vibrant colors. The park was established in 1964.
·
There are three sections: Island in the Sky (the
closest and easiest to get to), Needles (further south but with paved access);
and The Maze (west and only with unpaved road or non-motorized access). Each
section below will be divided around the three sections, with the main focus on
Island in the Sky, because that is where most visitors will go. Canyonlands is
open 24 hours, 365 days a year. Visitor Services and hours are listed below. An
orientation video is available at http://www.nps.gov/cany/photosmultimedia/orientationvideo.htm
Island in the Sky: There is one main, paved access
point using Hwy. 313 and it enters Island in the Sky on the northeast edge with
access to the visitor center and the major sites. This road goes 6m into the
park and then forks. To the north is the upheaval dome area. To the south is
the White rim Overlook. On the west side, there is a four wheel drive road,
white rim road, which runs along the edge of the park towards the south edge
then back up the east edge finally ending at the main road at the visitor
center.
Needles: Hwy. 211 enters the Maze from its east side.
There is a visitor center at the entrance to the park and then the road goes
6.4m to a divide. To the north is Big Spring Canyon, to the southwest is Squaw
flat. A high clearance side road goes north just after the Visitor Center to
the Colorado River Overlook. Another four wheel road enters further south to
Lavender Canyon and one last four wheel drive road enters from the south to
Chesler Park.
The Maze: A passable dirt road enters from the west
to Hans Flat, but once in the park the road becomes a four wheel drive road. It
goes north to Horseshoe Canyon (which is accessible on a two wheel drive dirt
road from its west side). It goes East into Panorama Point, which overlooks the
Island in the Sky district. And, it goes south to several additional trails and
Poison Spring Canyon, outside the park to the west, and Hans Flat and Hite
Marina, 58 miles south outside of the park. There are NO services in the The
Maze.
Practicalities
·
Entrance Fees, Individuals $5, Vehicles $10
(both for 7 days), $25 for a year long passport to Arches, Canyonlands,
Hovenweep and Natural Bridges
·
Permits and Reservations: Permits, currently
$30, are required for any overnight trips in the backcountry, and in the spring
requests for the permits for White Rim often exceed availability. Permits may
be issued for up to 14 consecutive days. Reservations are highly recommended
and are available for backcountry permits, river permits and group campsites.
Regular campsites are available on a first come, first served basis. Permits
for four wheel drive day use are also required, currently $10. Permits are
issued at the visitor centers but can be reserved in advance. To apply for
permit in advance, download the reservation form from the website and submit at
least two weeks in advance and up to July of the year before your trip is
planned.
Questions?
Call the reservation office staff at (435) 259-4351, Mon-Fri
8am-12:30pm. Questions can also be emailed using this form, http://www.nps.gov/cany/planyourvisit/backcountrypermits.htm
website for downloading permit application: http://www.nps.gov/cany/planyourvisit/backcountrypermits.htm.
·
Road Quality
ATV's and non-street legal dirt bikes are not
permitted in the park.
Rental Cars: most rental car companies do NOT allow
travel on unpaved roads.
Canyonlands has some of the least visited and most
primitive areas of any National park in the Maze District. Those desiring to
see these spectacular and rarely visited areas will be well rewarded for their
efforts, but need to be prepared for the road conditions. These are not your
Dad's four wheel drive roads, but significantly difficult to pass, rocky, muddy
and steep. Your vehicle needs to be in tip-top shape and drivers need to be
able to make basic repairs of their vehicles. Towing in the backcountry is VERY
expensive, usually exceeding $1000.
For Road quality status go to the following website, http://www.nps.gov/cany/planyourvisit/roadstatus.htm
·
Pets: In most areas of Canyonlands, pets are
forbidden. They are allowed in developed campgrounds and may walk with visitors
along the paved park roads. Pets must be leashed. It is never a good idea to
leave pets in cars out here where temperatures can soar because of the intense
sun year round.
·
Restrooms: visitor centers and campgrounds are the best
option for finding an indoor restroom
·
Cell phone coverage is intermittent and
unreliable. It is not a good idea to rely on cell phones for emergency help.
Satellite phones are much more reliable, particularly in the back country.
·
Road conditions: road conditions are updated
regularly at http://www.nps.gov/cany/planyourvisit/roadstatus.htm
·
Grocery, there are no services in the park.
Bring your own food and water.
·
Climate: hot and dry summer daytime (expect
temps around 100 or higher) with mornings and evenings comfortably cool. It's cooler
but still sunny in the spring and fall daytime, and snow and sun in the winter.
Fall and spring are prime times to visit the area with moderate temps and
wildflowers and lots of sun. Lightening and flash floods are real dangers in
the wide open spaces and deep ravines and washes. If storms are threatening, be
sure you are not the tallest thing around and stay out of the washes.
Canyonlands gets about 9.2 inches of precipitation a year, which is more than
most desert climates but the dry, warm air results in significant evaporation
and the area is always in a water deficit.
Activities
Kid Alert: Island in the Sky and Needles offer
opportunities for curious kids. Start first with the Visitor Center where you
can check out interpretive programs and get Junior Ranger information. Be sure
to ask about the Discovery Packs which allow young visitors to get up close to
the environment. The packs contain binoculars, a hand lens, a guide book and a
notebook. Then take your pack to one of the many discovery rich areas. In
Needles, kids will find both the cowboy camp and the pothole hike good areas to
look more closely. At Cave Spring trail, most kids will love scaling the
ladders (they don't go up real high)and viewing the historic cowboy camp on
this short hike. Bring your discovery kit to pothole trail and look closely in
the potholes for signs of life. The trail is also safe for kids to run around
and explore the rock formations (on the slickrock, but the cryptobiotic soil on
the sides of the trail is off limits). In Island in the Sky, active kids will
enjoy climbing on Whale rock.
Island in the Sky
·
Interpretive Programs: talks and activities are
offered from March -October. Times and locations are posted at the Visitor
Center
·
Scenic Driving: visitors will want to drive the
34m RT entrance road stopping at the many, spectacular overlooks 1000 feet
above the landscape below. Grand View Point and Green River Overlook are stops
that should not be missed. Listed in the order you will come upon them as you
drive the road from the visitor center.
On Main Road
Shafer Canyon Overlook has
a .4 mile trail that includes views of the La Sal and the Abajo Mountains, and
to the northeast is Dead Horse Point State Park. Access to Shafer Trail Road.
Overlook has some barriers where you can get pretty close to the cliff edge.
Below is the Shafer trail Rd. and you can see it switch backing its way down
the steep cliff
Access to Shafer
Trail Rd, .5m past the visitor center, connects Mesa Top with the White Rime Rd
(see below). Good for high clearance four wheel vehicles or well-practiced
motorcycles and people with no fear of heights or windy curves or steep drop
offs.
Neck Spring, access to Neck
Spring trail from Shafer Canyon overlook
Lathrop, access to Lathrop
trail
Mesa Arch, restrooms,
access to Mesa Arch trail
Upheaval Dome Rd
Aztec Butte, access to
Aztec Butte hike
Green River Overlook
includes views of the Abajo and Henry Mountains as well as the winding Green
River, and it is really Green as it wraps around the canyons and rock
formations. The view spreads out past the river and over the Maze and the Land
of Standing Rocks.
Whale Rock, leads to the
Whale Rock trail and a bit further south to Alcove Spring and Taylor campground.
Whale rock is an eroded sandstone fin, smooth along the top and fun to climb.
There are handrails to guide climbers to the top. From the top, you can get 360
degree views of the park.
Upheaval Dome, restrooms,
picnic tables, access to the Syncline Trail and the Upheaval dome trail. Also
leads to Upheaval canyon trail. When you park here, you will see the dome
straight ahead, although it will look just like a pile of sandstone with bushes
growing on it. To see into the dome, take the overlook trails which climb to
two overlooks. The Syncline loop trail goes around the dome and gives access to
the Crater Spur trail, which climbs up into the dome.
Did you know? There are two competing theories about how the
dome was formed. The first is that a meteor created an impact crater which then
collapsed, thrusting rock upward. Erosion, it is theorized, washed away all
meteorite traces. The second theory is
that the dome was formed by salt flowing up through rock creating a "salt
bubble" which has since been eroded to form what you see. The dome is even
visible from space. For more information about the meteor theory see, http://www.utahgeology.org/pub28_pdf_files/UpheavalDome.pdf
Road to Grand View Point
Murphy Point, access to
Murphy Point trail, Murphy Point loop, the Murphy Hogback campground and the
White Rim Rd.
Buck Canyon Overlook:
overlook looks east over the White Rim Road and the Colorado River. It's the
highest easily accessible point in the Island in the Sky at 6240 ft.
White Rim Overlook includes
restrooms, picnic areas with shade and access to the Gooseberry and White rim
overlook trails as well as to the White rim four wheel drive rd.
Grand View Point, 12 miles
from visitor center, restrooms, 6000 feet elevation, 360 degree view
Stop here for
the vast, spectacular views but also for the interpretive sign that details 11
of the sites you will see ahead of you including White Rim Road and the
Colorado River. The White Rim is 1000 feet below. Spread before you is an almost
unlimited view with an array of fins and hoodoos up close and mountains and
clouds in the distance. Grand View trail and Gooseberry trail are accessed here
(see hiking below).
·
Picnic Areas: Grand View Point, Visitor Center,
Upheaval Dome, White Rim Overlook, campgrounds
·
Boating: Guided trips are offered on both the
Green and the Colorado River, but there are no facilities or services along the
rivers in Canyonlands. Many of the outfitters offer interpretive tours on the
slower boat rides (jet boats). Some offer combinations of boating and land
adventures. Calm and rough sections can be found on the Green and Colorado.
Cataract Canyon, below the confluence of both rivers, is a 14 mile Class III to
Class V white water. Above the confluence, miles of calm, flat water makes for
a great opportunity for leisurely cruising. Paddlers can get outfitter help
returning up stream (see Tex's Riverways and Tag-A-Long expeditions below). You
can take your own boat through the park for $20 per person.
·
Adventure Bound River Expeditions, 800-423-4668,
970-245-5428, www.adventureboundusa.com, white water, kayaking, single and
multi-day
·
Canyonlands by Night, 800-394-9978,
www.canyonlandsbynight.com, night and dinner tours on water and land. The night
boat tours are a great family option with a leisurely tour of the Colorado
river on an open boat with commentary and low tech light show (some religious
references), and a large Dutch oven dinner $59 children, $69 adults (dinner and
boat rides can also be purchased separately). Wine boat tours are also offered
at sunset, $79 and includes 2 drinks, dinner and live Native American
entertainment.
·
Colorado River & Trail Expeditions,
800-253-7328, 801-261-1789, crateinc.com, multi-day white water
·
Don Hatch River Expeditions, 800-346-6277,
209-736-4677, www.donhatchrivertrips.com, multi day white water
·
Moab Adventure Center, 866-904-1163,
www.moabadventurecenter.com, jetboat, dinner and night show, rafting, land
adventures
·
Moki Mac River Expeditions, 800-284-7280,
801-268-6667, www.mokimac.com, one to multi day white water and canoe rental
·
Sherri Griffith River Expeditions, 800-332-2439,
435-259-8229, www.griffithexp.com, one to multi day white water
·
Tag A Long Expeditions, 877-662-2839, 435-5101,
452 North Main St, Moab, www.tagalong.com, jetboat, rafting and kayaking as
well as land adventures. Shuttle for canoe or kayak
·
Tex's Riverway, 800-662-2839, 435-259-5101, texsriverways.com,
canoe shuttles, canoe and kayak rentals
·
Tour West, 800-435-9107, 801-225-0755, twriver.com,
multi day white water
·
Utah Outventures, 801-824-3934,
www.utahoutventures.com, rafting, jet boats and land adventures.
·
Adrift Adventures, 435-259-8594, 800-874-4483,
www.adrift.net, 378 North Main St, Moab, 2-5 days white water and land tours
·
Hiking: There are hundreds of miles of trails of
varying lengths and difficulties
·
Short hikes, under 5 miles
White Rim Overlook trail, 1.5m RT with 25ft elevation change
starts towards the end of the Grand View Point rd. before you get to the Grand
View Point.
From the point, it's a great place to see the sunrise because
it looks to the east. View of potholes and white rim road. The mostly gravel
and sandstone trail narrows to an almost 360degree view of Monument Basin
including views of the confluence of the Green and Colorado river, the La Sal
and the Abajo mountain ranges. This is a good trail to take in the different
types of sandstone making up canyonlands. The trail starts at Navajo slickrock,
then changes to Entrada sandstone.
Grand View Point Trail, 2m RT with no elevation gain. Vault
toilet at trailhead. Starts at Grand View Point trailhead
Easy trail with great views goes to the southernmost
end of the Island in the Sky. The first overlook is over a 100 yards paved
trail and is wheelchair accessible. Spread before you are literally hundred
miles of canyon and river views. You can check out the geology panels here if
you want to understand the rock layers spread before you. To the east off the
trail are the La Sal Mountains. And, as
you get to the end of the point, you'll see Junction Butte to the south. Cairns
will direct your hike across sandstone.
Kid Alert: Trail does not run right on the cliff
edge, but the cliff edge is accessible so young kids will need to be watched.
Murphy Point, 1.8m one way with 100 ft elevation change,
starts at the Murphy point trailhead on the Grand View Rd, low visitation
leads to Western end of the island in the sky views with
Henry Mountains in the distance. Trail is mostly sandy, following an old road
and passing decaying corrals, with some slickrock at the end. Cairns mark the
last part of the trail. In the canyon below, you'll see the Murphy Hogback, a
long slab of Moenkopi Shale rising 200 feet above the White Rim plateau. Good
point for sunset pictures. With a permit, visitors can camp here.
Mesa Arch, .5m loop with no elevation gain. Starts at Mesa
Arch Parking area, very popular hike and
photo stop, trail brochure available
trail leads out to an arch on an 800 ft cliff edge through
which the vast expanses of the park can be viewed. Mornings and sunset are the
best time for this hike if you want good pictures. Give yourself 45 minutes to
get here from Moab.
Upheaval Dome Overlook Trail, 1.6m RT (but can be done as a
longer hike to Syncline loop, a further 4.1m one way), 50 feet elevation change,
including some step climbing. One of the most popular hiking areas in the park
Trail starts at Upheaval Dome parking area. Picnic area.
First overlook is one mile and showcases an unusual rock formation, an
anticline, rocks being bent upward below,
and then the rocks are eroded from above. Surrounding the anticline is the
syncline, which is a downwarp of the rock. The dome is about 3m across and 1000
feet deep and was (maybe) created by a meteor collision about 60 million years
ago (or perhaps a salt bubble? see discussion under upheaval dome above).
Continue to the second overlook, keeping a lookout for the cairns that mark the
trail, for .6m.
Whale Rock Trail, 1m RT with 100 feet elevation change. Trail
starts near Upheaval dome parking area and you can see the dome from here.
Short climb to a view of upheaval dome. Using handrails, you
can scale the rock
Learn More
About it: Potholes are an unusual feature not because water collecting in
depressions is particularly earth shattering, but these potholes harbor little
creatures like tadpole shrimp, clam shrimp, moss piglets, mosquito larvae and
even little toads, who can even survive after the water evaporates. The
potholes are also used for breeding by lizards and insects. The water forms the
potholes in the uneven cedar mesa sandstone, but it's not simple erosion at
work but a combination of the water rubbing on the soft sandstone and the
carbonic acid and sand grains in the rain gradually wearing away the
depressions. Potholes are great to look at but should not be touched because
human skin oil, lotion, sunscreen, etc. disturbs the fragile ecosystem and can
make the pothole uninhabitable and unusable. Want to know more? See this video: http://www.nps.gov/cany/photosmultimedia/inside_potholes.htm
Aztec Butte Trail, 2m RT with 259 feet elevation
change, starts at Aztec Butte Parking area.
Level across grasslands for about 1/2mile, then
you'll come to a shorter hill with a few granaries before the steep trail leads
to granaries nestled under alcoves (and brief moments of shade) and outstanding
views at the top of the hat shaped rock formation. Cairns mark the trail but
they can be difficult to see on the butte itself. There are several granaries
in various positions around the butte top, so make sure to make your way
around.
Opinion: This is often rated as an easy trail but our
experience required some scrambling up the abrupt slope, and I would rate the
trail as moderate.
·
Long Hikes, over 5 miles
Neck Spring, 5m loop with 300 feet elevation change, begins
near the Shafer Canyon overlook.
Trail winds down Taylor Canyon to Neck and Cabin springs once
used by ranchers. There are also the remains of old watering troughs where
water was gathered for the livestock and remnants of an old cabin. Lots of ups
and downs as the trail travels around hillsides. The trail climbs out of the
canyon at Island in the Sky Road about .5m south of the original trailhead. The
trail crosses several branches of a tributary of the Green River and is marked
by cairns. There are some limited views over the canyon.
Gooseberry, 6m RT with 1400 feet elevation change, starts at
Grand View Point.
Great views of cliffs and La Sal Mountains. Trail heads down
the mesa, descending fairly steeply through switchbacks and then descending a
bit more gradually to the White Rim Rd and the Gooseberry campground. The trail narrows at one point to about a
boot length in width but other than that it's at least one foot wide. You'll
pass five different geologic periods as marked in the rocks, the Kayenta,
Wingate, Chinle, Moenkopi and finally, at bottom, the White Rim layer. Climbing
out is strenuous. There is a pit toilet at the bottom at the campground.
Syncline Loop, 8.3mRT, starts at Upheaval Dome trailhead with
1460 feet elevation change. Start the trail to the right, going clockwise, for
the best views.
This strenuous backcountry route follows a wash with some
flat and steeper areas. There are two spur trails that will add to your overall
mileage if you decide to follow them. One goes to the center of the crater
(3m). The other to the Green River (7m). Turn right at this junction to stay
with the Syncline loop trail. This trail is marked by cairns but at time is
difficult to follow largely because of lots of scrambling and climbing over rocks.
The first mile is relatively flat, following the Upheaval dome trail.
Alcove Spring, 12mRT with 1300 feet elevation change one way.
You can walk this trail descending to the spring
(which is actually 200 feet off the trail but easy to see because of the bring
green patch of grass around it) for a .7 one way trail, losing 440 feet. Views of
Taylor Canyon. Most people arrange for a shuttle to pick them up at the Taylor
Camp Trailhead.
Did You know? Many springs
are actually a result of the rock formations. Navajo sandstone actually stores
water, like a sponge, because it's made of small grains of sand interfilled
with minerals and lime but leaving tiny spaces where water gathers, eventually
making its way through the rock to the ground below which just happens to be
made of another rock, kayenta formation. This rock is almost impervious to
water so the water that eventually comes through the Navajo sandstone gathers
below on the Kayenta formation.
Lathrop Trail, 11m RT starts at Lathrop trail stop on main
park road, elevation change is 1600 feet one way.
Very steep trail winds down to the White Rim Rd, the only
trail in the park that goes from Island in the Sky to the Colorado River.
Cowboys used this trail as did miners and the remains of mines can be seen
along the upper trail. The trail starts out through a flat grasslands, called
Gray's pasture, for about 1.6m, so you could hike just that part and return to
the trailhead if you do not want to attempt the steep ascent (or return back up
it). Just before reaching the rim of the
canyon where the trail starts its descent, you can see a small tin shed, east
of the trail, once used by ranchers to store materials. The trail starts
dropping immediately after you reach the rim and descends steeply for 1600 feet
passing abandoned mines.
Did You
Know?: Canyonlands was used for ranching from the 1880's to 1975, when the
ranching permits expired and the land was transferred to the National Park
Service. These early ranchers ranged from individual men with a few cattle to
large, commercial ranchers who hired cowboys. One of the largest operations,
Scorup-Sommerville Cattle Company, had between 7,000-10,000 head at its height
in 1926. The cattle spread over a million acres and required the cowboys to
stay out on the open range in outdoor camps, like the one at cave spring.
Texans brought up cattle from the south and Mormon settlers in the area also
ranched. Trails and features in the park are often named after the early
cowboys and ranchers. Cave Spring trail showcases one of the early cowboy
camps, where the cowboys would live while guarding their herds. Most trails
that descend from Island in the Sky to the White Rim Plateau were built at the
beginning of the 20th century so that ranchers could use the Plateau below to
winter pasture their sheep and cattle. Cowboys would herd their animals to the
trails around October and move them to the lower, more lush areas. It's not
hard to imagine that the mesa top might have been a good place to keep
livestock given how easy it would be to control them on this "island in
the sky" where all they had to do was put up a 40 foot gate at the neck to
the island and they were cut off. Today, there are still a few active ranches
grandfathered into the park.
Media Connection: <a type="amzn" >Tales of Canyonlands Cowboys</a>Tales of Canyonland's Cowboys, Richard Negri and David Lavender, University
Press of Colorado, 2010. Negri actually interviewed real cowboys for this book.
Murphy Loop, 10.8m starts at Murphy Loop trailhead,
Trail starts on the mesa top and then steeply descends to a
trail divide, take the right hand side to Murphy Hogback with great views of
the White Rim formation and the canyons. The trail joins up with the White Rim
mountain bike and off-road trail briefly. It is well-signed, however, where the
trail leaves the road and crosses Murphy Wash Trail, heading back up the cliff.
The trail is marked with cairns. Very limited shade
·
Four Wheel Driving,
·
Shafer Trail Road, .5m past the visitor center,
connects Mesa Top with the White Rim Road (see below). Good for high clearance
four wheel or well-practiced motorcycles
·
White Rim Road is a good four wheel drive road
for those who haven't done a lot of four wheeling. Its moderately difficult
under fair weather conditions. There are several switchbacks and steep climbs
and descents.
Adrift Adventures, 435-259-8594, 800-874-4483,
www.adrift.net, 378 North Main St, Moab, half day jeep tours through
canyonlands
Tag-a-Long Expeditions, 800-453-3292, 435-259-8946,
452 North Main St, Moab, provides one or two day 4 X 4 backcountry tours
Oars Canyonlands Inc, 800-346-6277, 209-736-4677, www.oars.com,
multi day trips
Outlaw Jeep Tours and Rentals,435-259-8845,
www.outlawjeeptours.com, 35 Grand Ave, Moab, jeep rental, jeep tours
Navtec Expeditions, 800-833-1278, 435-259-7983,
provides half and full day 4 X 4 tours on the Shafer trail
·
Backpacking: many visitors want to explore the
backcountry of Canyonlands by foot. permits are required for any overnight
excursions. Permits are restricted to a given, assigned area in order to limit
damage to the pristine back country. Water is of limited availability. Packing
in water is advised.
·
Canyoneering
Windgate Adventures, 435-260-9802,
windgateadventures.com
Navtec Expeditions, 800-833-1278, 435-259-7983,
provides half day trips to slot canyons and overhanging mesas for beginning
canyoneering experience
·
Biking:
White Rim road is an excellent mountain biking road.
Bikers can travel 100 miles through truly incredible scenery. Permits are
required only if you plan on staying overnight and reservations for these
overnight permits are HIGHLY recommended due to the road's popularity. There
are no designated bike lanes in the bike, but bikes are allowed on park roads,
riding single file. There are several switchbacks and steep climbs and
descents. There are long rocky stretches, deep sand and little shade. Bikers
should bring at least one gallon of water per person. There is no potable water
on the road. Guides are recommended, especially for first time riders.
Escape Adventures, 435-259-7423, 800-596-2953, multi-day
and half and full day mountain biking tours, bicycle rental included. Escape
adventures also rents bikes.
Rim Tours, 435-259-5233, 1233 Hwy. 191,
www.rimtours.com, multi-day, half and full day, mountain biking, including
tours for the beginner biker
Holiday River Expeditions, 800-259-6323,
801-266-2087, bikeraft.com, 544 E 3900 S Salt Lake City, mountain biking tours
Utah Outventures, www.utahoutventures.com,
801-824-3934, shuttle service for bikers to and from Shafer Trail and Lathrop
Canyon
Western Spirit Cycling, 800-845-BIKE, 801-259-8732, westernspirit.com,
478 E Mill Creek Dr, mountain biking
Tagalong Expeditions, 435-259-8946, tagalong.com, 452
N Main St, Moab, offers a mountain bike shuttle for White Rim Trail
Magpie Cycling Adventures, 800-546-4245,
435-259-4464, www.magpieadventures.com, multi-day mountain biking tours for
beginners to advanced
·
Climbing: The Sandstone towers can be climbed.
But rock climbing in this park is not particularly good. Permits are not
required.
·
Visitor Center, located at the entrance to the
park on Hwy. 313, 9am-4pm with extended spring through fall hours. Closed major
holidays. Small visitor center with a shop, film and a few exhibits
Creature Feature: lots of small creepy crawly things
call this desert area home including stink bugs, black widows and scorpions.
Rattlesnakes can also be found in the park. On the larger size, black bears
have been seen in the Needles District and bighorn sheep might be spotted in
the Needles as well. Badgers, bobcats, coyotes and mule deer range Canyonlands.
Prairie dogs are one of the most prevalent creatures and are not to be fed, no
matter how cutely they beg. Ravens are common but Eagles might also be spotted.
Canyonlands has a wildlife camera that you can access at http://www.nps.gov/cany/photosmultimedia/wildlifecamera.htm.
It's a good way to entice younger kids to get excited about their trip.
Interested in the bighorn sheep? You can hear more about them in this video: http://www.nps.gov/cany/photosmultimedia/inside_bighornsheep.htm
Needles
The Needles are named after their colorful red and white
banded spires of Cedar Mesa Sandstone that tower up to 400 feet. Great area for
all day hikes.
·
Visitor Center, located at the entrance on Hwy.
211, 435-259-4711, hours 9am-4pm with extended hours spring through fall,
closed from Dec-mid-Feb., restrooms, exhibits
Information on hiking and the back roads and permits.
There is a computer generated slide show on the geology (but you can also watch
this from your own computer). If the
weather seems iffy, you can get advice about road conditions.
·
Interpretive Programs are offered from Mar-Oct
with evening programs in the Squaw Flat campground. Times and locations of
programs are listed at the visitor center.
·
Scenic Drive, the main road is 6.5m to an
intersection, the right runs to Big Springs Canyon Overlook and the left to
Squaw Flat and Elephant Hill area. Just driving this road will take you to
several overlooks, nature trails and access to four wheel drive roads.
Did you Know? Needles got its name from the
thousands of tall, pointed, multi-colored rock formations that dominate in this area.
These closely spaced vertical fractures formed by the forces of erosion stand
like sentinels over the desert floor. The top layer of rock is a Cedar Mesa
Sandstone, a harder more resistant to erosion rock layer then its underlying
layer of Cutler Sandstone. The underlying layer deteriorates quicker than the
top layer creating a variety of interesting shapes including ones that recall
the toadstools of fairy tale lore where one expects a troll or frog to live.
Chesler park and Elephant Canyon are especially rich in pinnacle formations.
·
Overlooks and stops on the scenic drive (in
order from the entrance)
Canyonlands Needles Outpost campground, right before
you enter the park, see lodging below
Roadside Ruin, across from the visitor center, trail
and you can see Sixshooter butte on the skyline, see hikes below
Needles Visitor Center, access to 4 wheel drive road
to Colorado River overlook (7m)
Cave Spring, trail and 4 wheel drive access to Tower
Ruin, Peekaboo campground, and Horse Canyon
Wooden Shoe Overlook, looks out over large monument
like rock formation that has a "wooden shoe" balanced on the middle
of it. Meadow and brush line the area before the formation making for a
colorful panorama.
Pothole Point, picnic table is right before this turn
out, short hike, see below
Slickrock trail access
Big Spring Canyon Overlook, hiking access to
confluence overlook trail, slickrock trail
Elephant Hill, picnic tables, access through hiking
and 4 wheel drive to Chesler Park, New Bates Wilson campground, Devil's Kitchen
campground, Druid Arch
Squaw Flat, camping, access through hiking to Lost
Canyon, Peekaboo campground, Squaw Canyon
·
Backpacking, most trailheads are accessible by
two-wheel drive vehicles and water is accessible most of the year. Permits are
required for all overnight trips. Reservations are recommended. Permits are
restricted to a given, assigned area in order to limit damage to the pristine
back country. Water is of limited availability. Packing in water is advised.
Deep Desert Expeditions, 435-259-1565, deepdesert.com,
provides guided, multi-day trips into the Needles
·
Biking
Guided Biking
Rim Tours, rimtours.com, 800-626-7335, multi-day
biking tours
Cycling Escapes, www.cyclingescapes.com,
714-267-4591, offers multiday biking tours
Colorado Overlook, accessed at the visitor center
Moderately challenging road with large rocks and some stair
step drops. The drops can be avoided if you park your bike prior to them and
then walk the remaining 1.5m to the overlook, which is worth the walk given the
outstanding views of the Colorado River canyon over 900 feet below. Trail is
marked by spray painted arrows and is mostly on slickrock.
Salt Creek and Horse Canyon, permit required for use
anytime. Deep sand, deep water and quicksand make this a ride for only the most
experienced.
Elephant Hill is one of the most technical four wheel
drives in Utah. Not for the faint at heart or those who are not familiar with
challenging terrain. No water but there are vault toilets at the camping areas
(except for New Bates and Wilson)
·
Hiking, 60 miles of interconnected trails.
Cave Spring Trail, .6m RT, starts at Cave Spring
parking area, 40 feet elevation change, download a copy of the NPS brochure http://www.cnha.org/pdfs/CaveSpringGuide.pdf
This trail visits a historic cowboy line camp with
many artifacts and pictographs. The camp was used until 1975. Cooking materials
are still arranged under the rock overhang and it's not difficult to imagine
several cowboys and their horses gathered around the table eating and talking
at the end of a long day riding the range. And, further in the back is the
spring where the cowboys could get water. The water is available year round,
except in exceptionally dry years. Back
in the spring area is also where you can see some pictographs in the soot
blackened walls. Clearly, the spring wasn't just used by cowboys.
Hikers must climb two wooden ladders but are rewarded
with good views from the slickrock perch. Surrounding the trail is the
cryptobiotic soil which requires some careful hiking. If the soil is destroyed
it can take decades to replace. One special treat about this trail that you
don't find in many in this park is the welcome shade of the caves. The
temperature seems to drop 15 degrees under the overhand.
Did you know? Cryptobiotic soil
(also called cryptogamic soils) is an essential component to desert life. The
soil is a mixture of algae, moss, fungi, lichen and sticky cyanobacteria and it
holds in soil and water, enriching the soil with nitrogen and carbon. As the
soil increases, plant life can get a hold in an otherwise hostile environment.
The soil though is very fragile and if broken can take decades to repair. Watch
a video on this special soil:
http://www.nps.gov/arch/photosmultimedia/tinyforests.htm
Kid Alert: this is a hike that kids tend to like
because of the cowboy camp but also because of the ladders. And the hike is
short enough that most kids do not get bored.
Pothole Point Trail, .6m RT, starts at Pothole Point
parking area, 25 ft elevation change, download the NPS brochure, http://www.cnha.org/pdfs/PotholePointGuide.pdf
Follow a slickrock and dirt surface, slippery when wet. The
trail is marked with cairns. Surrounding the trail is a mixture of cacti and
cryptobiotic soil. Many potholes, depressions in the sandstone, can be seen and
if it's rained, they will be filled with water and the creatures that inhabit
them (see Learn More About it, Potholes for more information). Potholes vary
from a few inches wide and deep to several feet wide and 5 or 6 inches deep. At
the end of the trail, you will be rewarded by a view of the Needles, lined up
like an army standing on the horizon.
Roadside ruin trail, .3m RT, starts at Roadside ruin
parking area, you can download the park brochure here http://www.cnha.org/pdfs/RoadsideRuinGuide.pdf
Short trail goes to a Puebloan granary from between
950CE-1300 CE. Here, crops were stored in a sheltered alcove. Trail guide
focuses on the plants of the area.
Learn More About It: Canyonlands was first visited by humans at
least 10,000 years ago. These Paleoindians crossed the area seeking food, both
big game and plants. Projectiles (arrowheads) are the only thing they seem to
have left behind. Evidence suggests that the first people to live in the area
was about 5000 years ago. Farming is evident from about 250CE as
hunter-gatherers began cultivating corn. A major habitation in the area is
evident in Needles from 1200 CE where the alluvial soils of the canyon bottoms
made for decent farming. Remains of granaries are still visible. Around 1300CE
these early residents left the area only to be replaced by Ute, Navajo and
Paiutes who crisscrossed the area for the next 500 years. Trappers began to enter the area in the 19th
century and you can see ample evidence of one Denis Julien who carved his name
on rocks throughout the area. Major John Wesley Powell traveled the Colorado
River through Canyonlands in the late 19th century. And, it seems that the first
white water rafters came through the area in 1907 when Julius Stone hired the
first guide, Nathaniel Galloway, to take him down the river. Want to know more?
See this video, http://www.nps.gov/cany/photosmultimedia/inside_ancestralpuebloans.htm
Slickrock trail, 2.9m loop, starts near Big Spring
overlook, mostly level with 80 ft elevation change
Over slickrock, marked by cairns, which can be slippery when
wet. Hikers might luck out and see bighorn sheep. There are four little spur
trails that take hikers to overlooks but there are lots of options for viewing
in addition to those four points. The hike is over a relatively flat tableland,
rocky in some places, with 360 degree views of the La Sal, the Henry and the
Abajo range in addition to many canyon views. The best views though are on the
return part of the loop when the Needles themselves open up before you. At
sunset, the needles turn a deep red.
Peekaboo Trail, 10m RT, starts at Squaw Flat Loop
"A" trailhead, 500 feet elevation change
Through both Squaw and lost canyons, the trail climbs a
series of exposed rims with spectacular views and lots of up and down. It
connects Squaw Flat campground with the road through lower Salt Creek Canyon.
Hike is challenging, including some scrambling, narrow ledges, and two ladders
must be climbed. Cairns need to be followed through a labyrinthine canyon
landscape. The first 1.5m is relatively flat and could be done for a 3m out and
back. Towards the end of the trail there are white pictographs up and to the
right on the canyon wall. It appears to be two turtles with flat, circular
backs and many small hand prints. Throughout the hike, you'll have views of
interesting rock formations, vast panorama views of the mountains, and Needles.
At the end, you'll reach the springs, a lush change from the 5 miles of dry
hiking.
Tip: if you forgot water, the campground is not far from the
trailhead and you can fill up your water there.
Squaw Canyon to Lost Canyon, 8.7m RT, starts at Squaw
Flat Loop "A" trailhead, 340 feet elevation gain
From the Squaw Flat trailhead A split, bear left. Trail
travels through a rich, riparian environment and among many needle formations.
Squaw canyon is dry and rock while Lost canyon is lush and provides some shade.
Some scrambling and climbing required. There is one ladder. Views from the top
of the sandstone outcrops are spacious and view in the canyons feature rock
formations and shrubbery.
Big Spring to Squaw Canyon, 7.5m RT, starts at Squaw
Flat Loop "A" trailhead, 430 ft elevation
The trail connects two canyons, separated by a slickrock
wall, for a loop hike. From the Squaw Flat trailhead A split, bear right for
Big Spring Canyon. There is some scrambling and steep climbs up the slick rock
to bridge the two canyons. At a second split, bear left for Big Spring Canyon.
The trail will become more rugged heading up the canyon. Keep an eye out for
the cairns. After a level stretch, the trail climbs to some amazing views.
Confluence Overlook, 10m RT, starts at Big Spring
Canyon overlook,
dropping down into a canyon and then climbs out and traverses
a mostly open, dry country to a cliff overlooking the junction of the Green and
Colorado rivers. Some scrambling and climbing, including a ladder. Views
include red rock formations of the Needles district and if you make it to the
end, a view of the Colorado and Green coming together. There is a small picnic
area at the end of the trail.
Chesler Park Loop, 11m RT, starts at Elephant Hill
trailhead, 500 ft elevation change, no water. One of the most used trails in the
Needles district.
You can take this for three miles for views overlooking
Chesler park and return for a 6m hike. The viewpoint at this 3m point is worth
the walk. You can see out over the needles district. Hike is fairly level
featuring a desert meadow, a cowboy line camp and views of the Needles. There
are some great "squeezes" between rocks which also provide shade.
Elephant Canyon/Druid Arch, 11m RT, starts at
Elephant Hill trailhead 3m at the end of the improved road just past Squaw Flat
campground, vault toilets, picnic tables, no water
best hike for views of the Needles area. Hikers will follow
the Chesler park access to Elephant canyon and then along the canyon bottom to
the Druid Arch trail branch. Branches are well marked, just keep an eye out for
the signs. There is a ..25m steep climb at the end. Trail winds through
slickrock, in and out of washes, and a forest of needles and spires. It then
descends down Elephant Canyon to a sandy ravine which leads to a scrambling
climb to the Arch under the shadow of more needles.
Guided Hiking
Deep Desert expeditions 435-259-1565, deepdesert.com,
provides guided, half and full day trips into the Needles
·
Four Wheel drives:
Colorado Overlook, 7m one way, mountain bike and 4
wheel drive. Trail starts at the Visitor Center
First 3 miles are accessible by 2 wheel drive, remaining
requires a high clearance vehicle. The geologic features don't really start
until you've crossed Salt Creek Wash about 3 miles into the road. The last two
miles of the road have the added appeal of viewing the Colorado River gorge and
its sandstone needles and Island in the Sky off in the distance. Moderately
challenging road with large rocks and some stair step drops. The drops can be
avoided if you park your car or vehicle prior to them and then walk the
remaining 1.5m to the overlook, which is worth the walk given the outstanding
views of the Colorado River canyon.
Salt Creek and Horse Canyon, 20.2m, permit required
for use anytime. Near the Visitor
Center.
Deep sand, deep water and quicksand make this a ride for only
the most experienced.
Lavender Canyon, 36.6m RT, immediately after turning
off Hwy. 211 through unlocked gate through a second gate, permit required for
day use.
Deep sand, deep water, and quicksand make this a ride for only
4WD vehicle. Bikes are not allowed.
Elephant Hill, off Hwy. 211 at the end of the main
park road, get a map from the Ranger Station
one of the most technical four wheel drives in Utah.
Not for the faint at heart or those who are not familiar with challenging
terrain. No water but there are vault toilets at the camping areas (except for
New Bates and Wilson)
Guided Tours Off Road
navtec, 321 N Main St, 800-833-1278, navtec.com,
4x4/Hiking tour, tour goes up Salt Creek to focus on archeological sites
utahoutventures, 801-824-3934,
www.utahoutventures.com, 4 X 4 road tours
The Maze,
for more information on this seldom visited and difficult to
access area, see http://www.nps.gov/cany/planyourvisit/maze.htm
Horseshoe Canyon
Hwy. 24 over 30 miles of graded dirt road, 2.5 hours from
Moab or 1.5 hours from Green River, no services, road is rough and wash board,
4 wheel drive advised, extremely hot in summer, no water, vault toilet,
information kiosk, primitive camping
Tip: nearby Goblin Valley State park has more complete
services and better camping
This site, added to the park service in 1971,
contains some of the most significant rock art in the United States. There are
well preserved and life size figures in vibrant colors and detail. These are
really impressive and more elaborate than most rock art.
·
Hiking
Great Gallery, 7m RT, starts at the west rim
trailhead, no water, 750ft elevation change
The hike descends through canyon walls, among
cottonwoods and to the pictographs, high on a canyon wall. Cairns mark the
sandy trail only accessible to hikers. Before you get to the panel, keep an eye
out for dinosaur tracks on the east side of the trail. The panel is 200 feet
long and 15 feet high. Figures, red and brown, seem to be dancing or walking
zombie like, their upside down triangular shaped bodies seem limbless. The art
seems to be around 2000 years old and perhaps as old as 8000 years.
Guided walks are offered on Sat and Sun from March to
May at 9am. Call for precise dates and times (435-259-2652)
Media Connection:
Interested in rock art of Horseshoe Canyon?
The National park Service has a very nicely done and detailed brochure
that can be downloaded from
http://www.nps.gov/cany/planyourvisit/upload/HorseshoeBook.pdf.
Learn More
About it: Rock art is a universal phenomena, and examples of rock art can be
found around the world dating back 40,000 years. There are two major types of
rock art, Rock paintings which are executed on the rock and petroglyphs that
are cut into the rock. The term "pictograph" has a longer usage and
might designate either type of rock art. The rock art found in Horseshoe Canyon
is considered of the Barrier Canyon style, believed to be from 2000 BCE to CE
500. In other areas of the four corners, different styles of rock art can be
seen. In the San Juan River corridor, the San Juan Anthropomorphic style and
Glen Canyon Linear Style dominate.
Viewing
rock art can take you back in time to a completely different culture or
society. What story is the art trying to tell? Symbols often resemble people or
animals but some symbols are purely symbolic. What are they representing?
Dating rock
art is through several process. One is patination whereby the art is dated
through the discoloration of the exposed rock. When the art is made, the design
is chiseled or carved into the rock surface and the rock is exposed. As the
surface sits in the air it gets darker and darker. So the darker the art, the
older the art. But rain and sun can affect accuracy. Other strategies used to
date the rock art included looking at whether the art is superimposed on other
art or where the art is located in relation to other art on the same surface.
If you want to learn more
about rock art, up close and personal, check out Wild River Expeditions special
rock art trips http://www.riversandruins.com/san-juan-river/rock-art.
·
The Hans Flat Ranger station, 435-259-2652, open from 8am-4:30 and is closed major
holidays. Small gift shop with a diverse selection of books and maps. No food,
gas or potable water. The maze is an additional 3 hours from the ranger
station.
Shopping
All the visitor centers have books, maps and other
gift shop items.
Eating
There are no places to eat in Canyonlands, not even a
snack bar.
Lodging
·
Camping: camp only in designated sites and only
have fires in grates. Check out time is 10am and maximum occupancy for any one
site is 10 people (two cars). Because of the limited number of developed sites
in the park, many visitors chose to use the BLM sites outside of the park. See
surrounding communities for details. In the back country, there are limited
designated sites. See the visitor center for information on these.
Island in the Sky
Willow Flat, 12 sites, vault toilets, no water, picnic tables,
RV's allowed up to 28 feet, $10 per night, no reservations and site fills up
quickly. Sites are spread among pine and juniper trees. Allows access to Green
River Overlook
Needles
Needles Outpost, Hwy. 211, 435-979-4007,
www.canyonlandsneedlesoutpost.com, private campground, groceries, gas,
supplies, and food, flush toilets, showers, reservations are accepted, $20 per
night
Squaw Flat Campground, 26 sites, toilets but no
showers, picnic tables, and water, RV's allowed up to 28 feet, $15 per night,
allows access to Chesler Park, Druid Arch and the Joint trail
Campground offers some privacy by positioning campsites
around rock croppings.
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